The Show

It has been very busy over the past few days...



Friday Night: As the 9 o'clock hour approached, I made my way to the town to witness the Easter festivities, first hand. Crouds of people surrounded the churches of the town as the Procession of the Epitaphios of Christ made it's way through the narrow streets. The evening continued as most do in Mykonos... Drinks. Kristos - an artist friend of Panos and Mixalis - was on the island visiting from Athens, so we had to party extra hard for the weekend. Old Customs Cafe happened to be having their Summer Opener Party, so we started there. When we walked in the door, there were shots already waiting for us on the bar. Down and then another. Not a bad start to the evening. As we sat in the corner, I couldn't help but notice a sandy blonde haired man at the bar staring at me. He looked at me, looked at Kristos... Apparently trying to decide if I was "taken". He was kind of cute, so I pumped George, the bar owner, for information. He said to leave it. Well, the guy kept staring! Finally, he spoke. His name is Dany. Albanian born, but had been living on the island since he was six. We chatted about my plans in Mykonos and after a few drinks, I took George's advice, and I left it. Feeling a bit buzzed, Kristos and I made our way to Babylon for some dancing. Drinks, drinks and more drinks later, we hopped next door to Jackie O's where I ran in to Adonis. An incredibly attractive guy that works with Mixalis. When you think of the whole descendant of a Greek God image, Adonis pretty much fits the bill. Tall, tan, fit, green eyes, and dark wavey hair that falls down around his ears. As Kristos chatted up the bartender, I stood (I may have been swaying, it was 5 am at this point, after all) talking to Adonis when some random guy grabbed me, poured a shot in to my mouth and kissed me. I managed to squirm away. I was planning o leaving, but it made more sense at the time to continue on to another bar with Adonis and a couple of his friends. On the walk, one of the friends wouldn't leave me alone! His name is Tolis... A friend of Adonis visiting for the Easter weekend from Athens. His appearance could best be described as a teddy bear. When we arrived at the club, he kept trying to kiss on me. I was drunk. Adonis had met some short skirt with HUGE hair. I just went with it. Not because I was interested... Just because. The night... er... morning ended with Adonis riding off on the back of a moped and me standing with the bear. We walked around for a bit as the moon faded away and the sun blinded our eyes. Pictures at the church by the sea, coffee at the port and a little shopping at the farmer's market. Finally I made the steep trek home... Tolis, hot on my heels. Whatever. I was tired, drunk and tired of discussing why he couldn't come with me. I flopped on one of my beds, told him that he could crash on the other and tried to go to sleep. He wouldn't leave me alone. After a few hours I made up an excuse to leave and he finally left. Hurting, I made my way to Mixalis's for a recap on the evening.

We went to the market to buy supplies for the easter holiday. The shops were packed! Whole lambs carcasses were leaving one by one. I tried to get the butcher to smile for a picture, but he wasn't very receptive to my request... Oh well.

Saturday night, after a very long nap, I put on my shortest skirt and headed to Mixalis's for pre-game. When I arrived, he was half way in the process of transforming in to Kelly. Drinking was the only thing that was going to pull me out of my massive hangover. One, two, three vodka-oj's later, Kelly was ready and so was I. Off to Babylon for the big show. As we arrived at 1:30 am the club was already packed with people who had just ended their fasting for the Easter holiday. We made our way upstairs to the dressing room. Kelly settled in, preppering her workspace for the show as I walked towards the bathroom where I was greeted by a very strange looking Italian she-man:

She simly stated, "You Trans-sex."
"No," I politely responed, "I am a woman."
Again, "Trans-sex?"
"No, me WOMAN."

It went to grab for my crotch as I backed away and said, very assertively, "NO... WO-MAN!!!"

Kelly finally came out of the dressing room and downstairs we went.

When Kelly went back upstairs to prepare for the show, I sat on a bar stool sipping on my Alpha beer. In walked Tolis. FUCK! I excused myself and went to "help Kelly," but was intercepted by the she-man. Now, it had it's pants down around the boots and was flashing around the G-sting. What the hell is going on? I know... I know... Anything can happen in Mykonos, but WTF... This was strange, even for Mykonos. As people tried to avoid this honorary bathroom attendant, I stood back in shock. The she-man was grabbing at every man that walked by... Attempting to follow them in to the restroom stalls. When shot down, it would pound on the doors and yell explicits in Italian. Choosing the better of two evils, I went back downstairs where Tolis stood waiting.

As I dodged Tolis's advances, Kelly's opening music started. Another excuse to ignore him. As always, Kelly put on a fantastic show. I stayed out for a bit and ducked out when Tolis was distracted by a friend and headed back to the hill. My bed, at last!

The Roosters

The sky is filled with brilliant hues of pink and blue as the sun sets over Chora. It is so quiet on the hill where I live overlooking the town and the water... So peaceful. I had a bit of a tiresome day today. It began as it usually does... Roosters crowing (they start in at 4 am), morning coffee overlooking the sea, a Fage yogurt and the sweetest blood orange that has ever crossed my lips. After, I go for a run around the hills and then take in a nice, long shower that usually ends with cold water. During the summer months, there is no need for a hot water shower, but now, when the morning air still has a bite to it, nothing feels better. I had a meeting with the producers of the film today at Ornos Beach. I went to the square where you can typically find a bus to several beaches every half hour, but no buses today; they begin tomorrow. So, I walked. It can't be far, I thought. As I made my way along the sea, distracted by the view, earbuds blasting an assortment of music from the past, I thought about many things: All that I left behind in the states, the adventure I am embarking on, how lucky I am to be here... the unknown.

It has been a couple of years since I have been to Ornos and everything looks different with the shops and restaurants not yet opened. Not to mention, I have never walked there. So, I called Mixalis for futher direction. GPS on my phone is definitely one of the things I miss about the states. Long story short, I ended up in Egypt... or at least that is what my feet think. Actually, it was out on a peninsula where there are million euro homes being constructed. I called Mixalis again.

"No, that is not the way... you needed to go right," he said.
"What? You told me to go straight along the sea?!?!" I responded.
"You took the wrong road."
"Yeah, I kind of figured that since I have been walking 40 minutes and you said it was only 10 last time we spoke."
"Yes, well go back."
"Fine. I'll call you."

So, I turned around. Already late for my appointment... Hot, sweaty. Awesome. With the blisters forming on the backs of my heel, I flagged down a trucker. He stopped. He didn't speak English, so without really asking, I just hopped in. What's the worst that can happen? He'll kick me out? And Greek men - especially old men - love me. It was worth a shot. He gave me a ride back in to where I made the wrong turn. I jumped out, said thank you and continued down the right path.

Okay, I made it and only 45 minutes late - I had called ahead. Sweaty, tired and with a runny nose from my sinus cold, I met with the producer. They seemed surprised and a little disappointed that I don't speak Greek well yet. The movie is being shot in Greek, so I was cast in a non-speaking role. Further instruction on location, times, etc to be provided later. I spoke to the American crew... None of which have ever been to Greece. Several had never been out of the United States. After our brief meeting I started making my way back Chora.

My heels still aching, I stopped in a Taverna for a Mythos. It was fantastic. I chatted with a woman who happens to know Mixalis, a local bought me a second beer and I got a food lesson from one of the patrons. The roe used in the fish roe spread is actually harvested by catching the fish, making a small incision, closing the cut and releasing the fish back in to the sea. Amazing. I had no idea this was even possible.

With no busses running and the taxis being somewhat unreliable, I thought walking back to Chora was my best option and surely someone would stop to offer me a ride. Within minutes, a Mercedes stopped in the middle of the road.

"Can I get a ride to Chora?" I asked.
"Yes, I am going that way," replied the man.

We spoke the best we could. He is an Albanian painter that has been living in Mykonos for the past 10 years... That's about all I got out of the conversation. He dropped me off at the taxi square and I headed to Mixalis's.

When Mixalis greeted me at the door, the aroma from the kitchen flooded out. Mushroom risotto. It is Mixalis's birthday today, so I feel a bit guilty that he was making me dinner, but we agreed to celebrate later in the week. It was exactly what I needed. Cooked to perfection. You would be surprised how many bad risottos are out there, but this one was perfect.

After enjoying our meal, I packed up a few things that I had left when I moved in to my apartment and made the trek up the hill to my flat. Upon arrival, I ran in to my landlord, Stamatas. A typical Mykonian man: short, graying hair, a little abrasive. He started to tell me about the neighbors. Apparently, they once had a very good relationship. Then, the neighbors put roosters right behind the compound. Loud roosters. And a dog... a loud dog. Stamatas is convinced they did it to drive out his renters. Who knows, but it doesn't bother me much. I am use to city noise and ranch life, so I find it rather easy to drown out the sounds. Yeah, it's not ideal, but tolerable. Stamatas hates it. It seems to have caused quite a rift between him and his former friends.

I ran in to a pelican on the street yesterday... It tried to bite me... Or eat me. Then, it went after the largest fish on the display. The sea urchin in the basket is super fresh and delicious. I had it at the restaurant last season.


I am going to nurse my cold. Until next time.

What a Weekend... Now Holy Week

As I walked through the streets tonight, a voice came over the loudspeaker... singing. It is officially the beginning of the Holy week. The voice was from the main church in Chora where I live. Most of the time, I will write about how the Greeks love to party, but they also love to pray. I don't consider myself to be religous, but I still find it very interesting. The long hours of service, the attire... and of course the food.

Let's back up for a second. It has been a very full weekend here in Mykonos...

Friday night Mixalis and I went out, of course. First stop: Lola. This place is fantastic. Gill and Demetrios (the owners) are so nice, the drinks are delicious, the prices good and the overall atmosphere is the best Mykonos has to offer. While there enjoying our cocktails, I met an old friend of Mixalis... Utz. Who just happens to be a rather famous German director. He is hilarious... The stories. Like the time he woke in his new Mykonian house to find a bunch of Chinese tourists on his roof taking pictures of the incredible view... Only in Mykonos. Aanyways, after a few laughs, we headed to one of my old haunts: Babylon. The drinks are strong and the music spins until... well, until the party stops. It was a great time. Drink after drink -- oh yes, and shot after shot. We were pretty hammered by the time we left at 4 am. And so it goes.

When I finally peeled myself off the bed at noon yesterday... with a hangover. I went through my usual Mykonos routine: stumbled down the stairs, made a Nescafe, sat and tried to reflect on the previous night. The weather was amazing. The wind had finally died down and the sun was shining briliantly over the port as we made our way to Allegro for coffee with the crew.

After a couple of hours in the cafe, Mixalis and I went back to the apartment to prepare Gordon's famous Bistro Chicken -- it was a big hit amongst the boys (https://www.starchefs.com/GHamersley/html/GHamersley_roastedchicken.html Note: No matter how you prepare this, it will never be as good as the authentic dish in Boston)-- then went out to find apartments. Every place we saw was asking for ridiculous rents, so I decided to go with one that I saw a couple of days before. Mixalis called the woman, Natasha, and asked if the flat was still available. She was waiting to hear back from a couple that had expressed interest. To which Mixalis said:

"No, Tana will take it... She is from a very well known family in America, you know." For the record, I'm not.
"Ah, yes, I saw her..." replied Natasha.
"Yes, she will take the apartment today."
"Okay."

So... I got an apartment!

To celebrate... or not really to celebrate... really just because, we went to Lola for cocktails, followed by dancing at Babylon. Last night was daylight savings here in Greece, so my head didn't hit the pillow until about 6:30 am. I may have been distracted on the way home... Not by some hot man, unfortunately, but by the most adorable kitten. I considered taking it with me. As usual, I slept great... Until 13:30! I don't know what it is about being on this island, but I sleep so well.


Today, I moved in to the new apartment to discover that I have the most amazing view! Seriously, it is absolute paradise. Pictures to come, I promise.

I have cut off communication with Thanos... I received some text this morning about being deep. WTF. The thing is, I never respond anyway. Why are Greek men so aggressive. Damn.

AND... I found a way to kill the time until work begins. Apparently, there is an American movie being filmed here and there is a casting call for extras. If I am just going to hang out in the sun all day anyway, I might as well get payed for it, yeah?

Wow, it just started to rain. I have never seen rain in Mykonos. Until tomorrow.

1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,...

Yesterday was ONE of the Greek Independence Days. I have never really seen day drinking here before, but by midnight, the town was silent.

I didn't go out during the day. Instead, Mixalis and I stayed home and made stuffed tomatoes and peppers. DELICIOUS. After dinner, my Greek lesson... Haha. Or something like that. I can now count to 20, say: go inside, go outside, go upstairs ;), go dowstairs, get out, kiss me... Of course, I still remember the basics from years past, such as: Hello, Goodbye, Please, Thank You, You're Welcome, Cheers! and of course, all the words to pick up a man and have sex in Greek. Now, I would share with you all, but I haven't learned to read or write yet, so hopefully soon.

After my lessons and a couple of cocktails at home, we met Panos and a couple of his friends from Athens at Bar Lola. Great spot! I went to bed pretty early (2:30), but still woke up with a wicked hangover.

Today, Mixalis and I went to look at what was going to be my new apartment, but the crazy landlady had rented it. I saw a second place with a great view, but it is not ideal of accomodating guests. So, tomorrow the search continues.

Oh yeah... And more texts from Thanos today. Most were lost in translation, but the general message was that he wants me to come to Athens. Keep in mind, I have spoken bad Greek and broken English to this person, then shook his hand. The guy is cute and all, but damn... Take off the full court press. I shouldn't be surprised... most Greek men I have encountered over the years have been like that. So bizarre. Anyways, I will not be going to Athens. He also sent a picture that I couldn't open. Being that he is Greek, I have a pretty good idea of what it could be of, so I am either really happy or really disappointed that I didn't see it. For the record guys: Don't send pictures of your penis... Regardless of how proud you might be, we just show everyone and laugh at you for sending... You only embarass yourself. AND it is straight up TACKY.

Until tomorrow.

Geia mas!

As I look out at the sea, I actually cannot believe that I live here.

Well, I did it. I MOVED to Greece. I sit here at Allegro Cafe on the port of Mykonos... The skies are briliant blue with light pillows of white deep on the horizon. Greek music plays in the background as I sip my Cappuccino. It is a national holiday today... To celebrate the beginning of the revolution when the Greeks pushed the Turks out of Greece after their 400 years of occupation. I woke to drums in the streets this morning... apparently there was a parade.

My LONG journey here began 3 weeks ago... 3 weeks of traveling (not to mention CRAZY partying)across the US, from Boston to Seattle... to Savannah... to Minneapolis and back to Boston. And then finally, to Greece.

When I arrived at the airport on Tuesday (a special thanks to my dear friend George -- without you, I would have never made it), I checked in to my flight to find that my bag weighed 40 kilos (About 83 pounds). The maximum that they will allow you is 32 kilos (70 pounds) which comes with a 50 USD surcharge for being 10 kilos over weight. After some creative manovering, and discarding of a few less than neccessary items, I was checked in, through security and waiting to board my flight. Suddenly it struck me... I was moving. Not just moving, but to Paradise in a country where I speak no more than a few phrases of the language... My stomach flipped.

The first leg of my journey (6 hours) did not seem long at all. I spent the entire flight awake and watching the in-flight entertainment. One hour was spent sobbing while watching "Hachiro: A Dog's Story". If you have a dog, this is an incredibly sweet film. If you have a dog that you just left for a couple of months on the other side of the world, it is on the verge of sadistic. I arrived in London exhausted. Dragging my two huge carry-on bags that probably weigh around 30 kilos, I made my way through the security check point and to my connecting gate.... Layover time: 3 hours.

The flight from London to Greece (4.5 hours) seemed like an eternity. As we dropped through the cloud covering I saw a huge green canvas. I have never been to Greece in the spring; by summer when I arrive, it is quite dry and most of the vegetation is gone. It was gorgeous. Of course, there wasn't a skyway available when we touched down, so out in the middle of the airfield, I dragged my bag down the long mobile stairs to the bus that would take me to customs. In no time at all, I was waiting for my bag... My giant, green 32 kg bag with no wheels that contained what was left of all of my possesions. The time was 14:00... My bus scheduled to depart at 14:10. At 14:08, I saw my bag, ripped it off the conveyor and ran out doors... Dragging behind me 64 kg of luggage (for the record, I am quite sore today). I made the bus... Off to Rafina.

By the time I stepped off the bus in Rafina at 14:45, I had been awake for 24 hours. Completely beat up and dragging my bags, I made my way to the ferry ticket office.

"Yassas... One ticket to Mykonos on the 17:30," I said, very politely
"The ferry is sold out" said the woman behind the desk.
"Well, what are my options," I replied.
"There are still tickets for the ferry tomorrow morning"
"I can't stay here over night... Is there a stand-by list?"
"You can stand here and wait to see if something opens up, but first check the other (12) ticket offices... They may have something."

And that's what I did... I dragged my bags from office, to office along the port and finally:

"That ferry is sold out.... Wait we have one first class ticket," said the girl.
"How much is that?"
"40 euro."
"Of course, I'll take it... It is only 10 euro more than a regular ticket."

I grabbed my "golden ticket" and walked to the same portside restaurant I always do to wait for my ferry. One delicious "Greece Salad" and a Mythos beer later, I dragged my bags across the long loading zone and boarded the boat.

First class wasn't much different than economy. There was a glass door that separated the two, but the ammenities were the same. A guaranteed seat was nice though. On board I met a trio of attourneys on their way to Tinos for the holiday weekend. Very nice and entertaining. We chatted for the next 4 hours of holidays on the islands, our jobs, our families... Sharing a mutual disdain for the pack of wild children in our cabin that were screaming and climbing the walls, literally, like little monkeys. As we arrived in Tinos, we exchanged contact information and said farewell. An hour later, I would arrive in Mykonos.

At 23:00, the voice came over the intercom.

"We arriving in the port of Mykonos. Please disembark the boat."

I grabbed my many bags and dragged them to a waiting taxi that would drop me off at the main square in Chora. As I walked through the winding streets of town, dragging my bags behind me, I searched for my friend Mixalis's flat where a key waited for my under a doormat. I had not been here in 9 months so it took a while and a very backwards route, but I finally found it. At last, I was home (or home for the next week or so until I find a flat of my own).

Mixalis and Panos were both at work when arrived and the house was quiet. I dropped my luggage and immediately jumped in the shower. It was cold, but still felt so great. On the otherside of the door, I suddenly heard "Yassu Tana." Panos was home.

He showed me how to turn on the hot water for later use and we sat and chatted. Mixalis arrived an hour later. Reunited, we sat at the kitchen table catching up. At 1:15, I received a text from Tharos (one of the attourneys from the boat):

"I thinking about you. I like you."

I didn't respond. I continued chatting with Mixalis and Panos for a couple of hours. Finishing the evening with an episode of Top Chef Season 5 and retiring for the night around 3:30 Thursday morning. 26 hours after my journey began and 38 hours since my head had seen a pillow. I didn't awake until noon.

It was the beginning of summer, my internship now complete, and I was only a couple of weeks out from heading off on my annual trip to Mykonos, Greece - If you have never been to Greece... GO! Over the next several months you will undersand why. My best friend, Mixalis is greek and now resides in Mykonos permenanly, so I not only go there for beaches and non-stop party, but to spend some time with him.

Upon arrival on the island - reunited for another crazy holiday - I went straight to Blu Blu to find Mixalis. We spent the next two weeks enjoying paradise. One day, while talking at Jackie O's, I mentioned that I was planning on beginning a new career as a chef after the first of the year (which is when bonuses were paid), and Mixalis had a briliant idea... Instead of taking off for Napa to attend culinary school at the CIA, come to Greece and work.

When I returned to the states, I continued to feel unfulfilled with my marketing position... the same thing, day after day, week after week. I was miserable. Then, something fantastic happened... My department merged with another department in San Diego and I was layed off. The timing... not so perfect. I had just committed to a new puppy - Duke - and a new apartment... money was going to be tight. This was it though... that final push I needed to really start pursuing my dream.

I began planning my move to Greece, but before I headed out in to the great unknown, I thought it best to get more culinary experience. I sent emails to area chefs, called in a couple of favors from some rather influential individuals in the culinary world and landed an unpaid role at a local bistro. From October until 2 weeks ago, I worked a full time schedule at the restaurant and the experience was invaluable... one of the best decisions I have ever made.

I guess that kind of brings me up to date. After my apprenticeship at the bistro ended, I had 2 days to move out of my apartment - what a mess and a very long story. I shipped my puppy off to Steve, in Minneapolis to spend a couple of months until I get settled abroad and now I am on my national tour.

I am originally from a small ranch in western Washington, so naturally, before I take off on this incredible journey, I had to spend some time with my family. It was a great week, but Washington was only the first stop. I not write to you from Charlotte International Airport as I await my connecting flight to SAVANNAH, GA. That's right... Savannah... Home of the second largest St. Patrick's Day festival in the country. I am meeting Jackie and Sara - a couple of my Boston girls - down there for a weekend of debauchery. It should be crazy... Stay tuned.

I have officially begun my journey. Actually, that is not entirely true, is it? My journey began months ago... Maybe even years ago.

Five months ago, my life changed. Like many young professionals in Boston, I lost my job. Now... I had spent the entire summer congratulating friends for getting layed off. Calm down... I know that unemployment is no laughing matter, but we are talking a group of 20-somethings that already hated their jobs. I saw it as an opportunity. And when the axe came down on me, my feelings were no different. In fact, the day I was layed off, was the first night I slept 8 uninterrupted hours in as long as I can remember. The heavy burden had been removed from my shoulders and finally, I had the push I needed to pursue my dream of becoming a CHEF.

I have been cooking semi-pro for a few years now. Catering dinner parties and benefits here and there. I have dreamt of making my passion my career, but found it difficult to abandon the great salary and benefits that shackled me to the finance world for long hours, hard work and little pay in the kitchen.

When my former company had first announced layoffs in early January, I was certain, my head would roll. I started making plans... I contacted several culinary schools, applied and was accepted. My only hesitation was that I had already spent so much time, energy and money pursuing my degrees in biology and genetics. The idea of going back to school for another 4 years with a bunch "children" was terrifying... Not to mention the $100k of debt it was going to land me.

The dreaded day came and went... I still had my job in marketing at one of the nation's top independent brokerage firms. I was bummed. I know that I was fortunate to have a job in this economy, and I guess a part of me was a little relieved that I didn't have to make the career hopping decision just yet. But this was a wake-up call. I knew that I could not continue on the path I was headed. Yeah, the money was great; the benefits even better. My job allotted me the freedom to travel, party and do pretty much whatever I wanted, but I was not fulfilled.

I decided to start slow... With some culinary background, I figured that I could land a part-time job cooking somewhere. I sent out feeler emails to a few chefs in the Boston area that were looking for line/prep cooks. I explained my situation and the fact that I was going to switch careers. I received a response from the executive chef at a modern Italian eatery.

With my work schedule, a part-time cook position was not possible, but he was willing to take on an intern. I would go in to the restaurant and work for free whenever my schedule allowed; sometimes as many as 40 hours per week. For months, I observed cooking techniques, management style... Learning and practicing along the way. One day, I went in to the kitchen and the entire kitchen team had quit. Their last days being scattered over the next week. The owner offered to let me stay on with the next chef, but I felt like that would be betraying my first culinary mentor. My last day was that week as well.