The Roosters

The sky is filled with brilliant hues of pink and blue as the sun sets over Chora. It is so quiet on the hill where I live overlooking the town and the water... So peaceful. I had a bit of a tiresome day today. It began as it usually does... Roosters crowing (they start in at 4 am), morning coffee overlooking the sea, a Fage yogurt and the sweetest blood orange that has ever crossed my lips. After, I go for a run around the hills and then take in a nice, long shower that usually ends with cold water. During the summer months, there is no need for a hot water shower, but now, when the morning air still has a bite to it, nothing feels better. I had a meeting with the producers of the film today at Ornos Beach. I went to the square where you can typically find a bus to several beaches every half hour, but no buses today; they begin tomorrow. So, I walked. It can't be far, I thought. As I made my way along the sea, distracted by the view, earbuds blasting an assortment of music from the past, I thought about many things: All that I left behind in the states, the adventure I am embarking on, how lucky I am to be here... the unknown.

It has been a couple of years since I have been to Ornos and everything looks different with the shops and restaurants not yet opened. Not to mention, I have never walked there. So, I called Mixalis for futher direction. GPS on my phone is definitely one of the things I miss about the states. Long story short, I ended up in Egypt... or at least that is what my feet think. Actually, it was out on a peninsula where there are million euro homes being constructed. I called Mixalis again.

"No, that is not the way... you needed to go right," he said.
"What? You told me to go straight along the sea?!?!" I responded.
"You took the wrong road."
"Yeah, I kind of figured that since I have been walking 40 minutes and you said it was only 10 last time we spoke."
"Yes, well go back."
"Fine. I'll call you."

So, I turned around. Already late for my appointment... Hot, sweaty. Awesome. With the blisters forming on the backs of my heel, I flagged down a trucker. He stopped. He didn't speak English, so without really asking, I just hopped in. What's the worst that can happen? He'll kick me out? And Greek men - especially old men - love me. It was worth a shot. He gave me a ride back in to where I made the wrong turn. I jumped out, said thank you and continued down the right path.

Okay, I made it and only 45 minutes late - I had called ahead. Sweaty, tired and with a runny nose from my sinus cold, I met with the producer. They seemed surprised and a little disappointed that I don't speak Greek well yet. The movie is being shot in Greek, so I was cast in a non-speaking role. Further instruction on location, times, etc to be provided later. I spoke to the American crew... None of which have ever been to Greece. Several had never been out of the United States. After our brief meeting I started making my way back Chora.

My heels still aching, I stopped in a Taverna for a Mythos. It was fantastic. I chatted with a woman who happens to know Mixalis, a local bought me a second beer and I got a food lesson from one of the patrons. The roe used in the fish roe spread is actually harvested by catching the fish, making a small incision, closing the cut and releasing the fish back in to the sea. Amazing. I had no idea this was even possible.

With no busses running and the taxis being somewhat unreliable, I thought walking back to Chora was my best option and surely someone would stop to offer me a ride. Within minutes, a Mercedes stopped in the middle of the road.

"Can I get a ride to Chora?" I asked.
"Yes, I am going that way," replied the man.

We spoke the best we could. He is an Albanian painter that has been living in Mykonos for the past 10 years... That's about all I got out of the conversation. He dropped me off at the taxi square and I headed to Mixalis's.

When Mixalis greeted me at the door, the aroma from the kitchen flooded out. Mushroom risotto. It is Mixalis's birthday today, so I feel a bit guilty that he was making me dinner, but we agreed to celebrate later in the week. It was exactly what I needed. Cooked to perfection. You would be surprised how many bad risottos are out there, but this one was perfect.

After enjoying our meal, I packed up a few things that I had left when I moved in to my apartment and made the trek up the hill to my flat. Upon arrival, I ran in to my landlord, Stamatas. A typical Mykonian man: short, graying hair, a little abrasive. He started to tell me about the neighbors. Apparently, they once had a very good relationship. Then, the neighbors put roosters right behind the compound. Loud roosters. And a dog... a loud dog. Stamatas is convinced they did it to drive out his renters. Who knows, but it doesn't bother me much. I am use to city noise and ranch life, so I find it rather easy to drown out the sounds. Yeah, it's not ideal, but tolerable. Stamatas hates it. It seems to have caused quite a rift between him and his former friends.

I ran in to a pelican on the street yesterday... It tried to bite me... Or eat me. Then, it went after the largest fish on the display. The sea urchin in the basket is super fresh and delicious. I had it at the restaurant last season.


I am going to nurse my cold. Until next time.